Polyglutamic Acid vs. Hyaluronic Acid
Sara Anderson
Global Brand Storytelling
5 min read
Just when you think you’ve got a handle on the latest beauty products and skincare ingredients, another TikTok trend emerges showcasing incredible results and promising a perfect complexion. With so much to choose from, how do you separate all the hype from the real thing? First, know your skin. Second, find a skincare brand you can trust. At fresh, we go beyond trends to bring you safe, sensorial skincare that works. Today's spotlight is on two foundational ingredients: Polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid.
Whether you're a bonafide skincare enthusiast or a total newbie, chances are you've heard about the benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin. Polyglutamic acid, on the other hand, is relatively unheard of… but not for long.
These two humectants both have their place in a hydrating skincare routine, but is one more powerful than the other? Let's find out.
Like hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a humectant. These substances are common hydrating ingredients in skincare that attract moisture from the atmosphere and retain it in the skin. Produced by a gram-positive bacteria, Bacillus, that occurs naturally in fermented foods such as Japanese nattō, it is composed of a group of glutamic acid molecules (a type of amino acid). Not only does PGA retain moisture on the top layer of the skin, it also produces moisture at a cellular level.
Hyaluronic acid is widely known in the skincare industry and occurs naturally in our skin, joints, and eyes. This glycosaminoglycan (long train of sugars that bind themselves to water molecules) also attracts and retains water, but it's especially effective at plumping up the skin's surface. Hyaluronic acids come in various molecular weights, some of which are able to penetrate the skin more deeply.
Polyglutamic acid can absorb 5,000 times its molecular weight in water, making it a moisturizing powerhouse. Because of its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of the skin and forms a film-like protective barrier, helping to enhance the skin's natural barrier, and giving you a dewy glow. Polyglutamic acid also helps seal in the moisture from your other skincare products.
Dehydrated skin isn't just uncomfortable, it's also more prone to visible signs of aging. By attracting moisture to the surface of the skin, polyglutamic acid products effectively minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Not only does polyglutamic acid boast impressive moisturizing capabilities, it also encourages the skin to produce carboxylic acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone, and urocanic acid, which are naturally moisturizing substances. Furthermore, by inhibiting the enzyme that decreases the production of hyaluronic acid while increasing its breakdown, it also helps improve the function of hyaluronic acid.
It's common for those with oily skin to avoid products labelled as hydrating as they fear an even shinier face. The reality, however, is that while the benefits of hydration are obvious to those with dry or dehydrated skin, proper hydration can actually regulate the skin's oil production. How? When your skin isn't getting adequate hydration, it may actually increase oil production in an effort to moisturize the skin. So sealing in hydration with polyglutamic acid may help balance your skin – no matter your skin type.
Studies have shown that polyglutamic acid, applied topically to wounds, increased collagen pigmentation and encouraged regeneration. The wound-healing capabilities could be especially beneficial to those with acne-prone skin.
The main use of hyaluronic acid is to hydrate the skin. A powerful humectant capable of holding up to 1,000x its weight in water, hyaluronic acid is especially beneficial to those with dehydrated skin. Though it’s produced naturally in the body, production slows down after the age of 25, so adding it to your skincare routine through products such as our Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence can help replenish your body's natural stores, keeping your skin soft, hydrated, and radiant.
Like polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid can reduce visible signs of aging by keeping the skin plump and hydrated. The key difference, however, is that hyaluronic acid comes in a variety of molecular weights, and smaller molecules are better adept at penetrating the deeper layers of the skin – plumping up the skin from the inside out, rather than soothing and rehydrating the surface. This is why hyaluronic acid-enriched products like our Black Tea Firming Overnight Mask are so effective at giving your skin a refreshed, youthful appearance.
While salicylic acids and AHAs are effective, they can be irritating to the skin, especially to those with sensitive skin. Using hyaluronic acid in your skincare routine can help reduce irritation by enhancing your skin's protective barrier to provide a soothing effect. This soothing property is why it's a common ingredient in products such as eye drops.
Antioxidants contribute to the preservation of healthy skin as we age. They help protect the skin's surface from oxidative damage caused by environmental irritants, harsh UV rays, and pollution. Because hyaluronic acid features potent antioxidant properties, it's a trustworthy component of your skincare routine.
With so many benefits, there's no need to choose between polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid. These ingredients can actually enhance each other's function, which makes it worth including both for the best results.
Get the benefits of both with our Lotus Youth Preserve Resurfacing Dream Serum – an ultra-moisturizing polyglutamic acid serum – and any one of our hyaluronic acid enriched favourites, including Rose Deep Hydration Balancing Emulsion for an extra layer of easily-absorbed hydration, and Tea Elixir Skin Resilience Activating Serum to help build your skin's natural protective barrier.
Leading skincare experts since 1991, keep your skincare forever fresh. Safe, effective, and oh-so-sensorial, we understand that your skin's needs are dynamic and changing. Our innovative skincare ranges are targeted to a variety of skin types and concerns so that your skincare evolves with you.
Shop fresh – your skin will thank you.
Written by Sara Anderson for Fresh. Sara is a NYC-based global marketer and beauty content strategist. Sara has 12+ years of experience conceptualizing and producing original content in beauty, fashion, music, and entertainment. Sara has created content for Fast Company, Us Weekly, Birchbox, and PopCrush.com with her expertise most recently in the beauty space.